Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to explore these tales and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
